Showing posts with label Fishing. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Fishing. Show all posts

Friday, August 19, 2016

The End of the Pipeline

Last Friday we waited in that line I was telling you about for the Whittier Tunnel. You know, the one that both vehicles and trains use....one at a time. It's a very precise schedule, but we got in!



Then we drove onto the Ferry to Valdez. It was a six hour ride but the ferry has a cafeteria and showed "Inside Out" for the kids, so it was pretty peaceful. The rest of us looked out the windows hoping to see the scenery through the rain. The Alaska Marine Highway is one of the most gorgeous "commutes" in the world.




When I was a kid the only reference I had for "Valdez" (pronounced val-deez) was the oil spill. I pictured industrial factories, dirty streets, and rivers with a fine rainbow sheen on them. After being in Valdez, I can confidently say that nothing is further from the truth. In fact, of all the places we've seen in Alaska to date, the Valdez area is the area where I sat on the edge of my seat most to absorb every detail. It was gorgeous!

Valdez, itself, is a small fishing village surrounded by glaciers and waterfalls. The Trans-Alaska Pipeline may end there, but you can't see it like you can on the route to Deadhorse.  In fact, this is the only visible evidence we saw of the pipeline in town.


The rest of Valdez is mostly small town and waterfront.  




It takes less than five minutes to reach the end of town from the boat launch. Just outside town you'll see a tunnel that was started during the railroad era, but never finished due to a disagreement that ended in a gun fight. "The Iron Trail" by Rex Beach describes it, according to a nearby sign. I haven't read the book yet, so can't recommend it one way or the other. If you've read it, let me know if it's any good!


The road after that is all waterfalls, mountains and glaciers. It's breathtaking! Some people snooze on road trips. You wouldn't on this one! You'd probably look more like a kid on their first trip to Disneyland! It's that fantastic. I mean, just look at our road views!





We were there for a few days, so we decided to spend one of the days going to McCarthy, which is famous for the Kennecott Copper Mine,  the native Athabascan people....and a few other things. We spent some time at the Copper River, where the worlds most delicious salmon spawn. We even saw a few fish wheels being used by native Alaskans. I think it's silver salmon (Coho) season right now.



The road to McCarthy ended up being more treacherous than the Dalton, and a few of the kids weren't feeling well, so we decided to stop and turn around. We had a delicious lunch at the historic Gilpatricks Hotel in Chitina (pronounced chit-nuh). I ordered the reindeer sausage, which is served on a roll with sauerkraut and mustard, German style (makes my mouth water even now!). Then we headed down the road to the Kenny Lake Fair.

Kenny Lake is a very small farming community. Once a year they all get together on someones property and have an old fashioned fair where people bring animals, homemade items, and produce to be judged. They offer freshly made goodies, like buttery crusted blueberry pie and ice cream. They also beckon to you to play games for prizes and have booths set up to sell items they've made throughout the year, like dream catchers. Needless to say, I was in Heaven. Everyone knew everyone. Kids and adults danced with each other next to the stage where the local band played, and kids walked around asking if anyone wanted to buy their Alaska-grown peas or play a game for the local high school fundraiser.





When our trip to the Valdez area ended, we drove home in order to see a different route and get a stamp on our National Parks Passport at Wrangell Elias National Park. There we learned about the Athabascan people, animals and vegetation in the area, and were able to touch actual animal pelts. I think my favorite was the beaver pelt. It was a lot softer and thicker than I thought it would be. This is a very large national park, filled with all kinds of amazing things. I recommend visiting it if you're in the area.

We had lunch in Glennallen and then stumbled across the most unbelievable part of our trip. We had planned to stop to take pictures at Matanuska Glacier, since we are living in the MatSu Borough, but when we got to it we found out that you can actually pay a fee and go in to WALK ON THE GLACIER!! You can touch it, stand on it, listen to it crack and creek, and see the effects of global warming up close and personal. Of course, we signed our lives away on the waiver and went in!




This was definitely a bucket-list item for me. We all had fun. The kids especially liked throwing caution to the wind, jumping over fissures in the ice. Walking in, it was surprising how fast we went from mud to ice without even realizing it. It's not often you get the opportunity to see the view from the glacier point of view. It was the very definition of awesome.



The only thing that was disappointing was seeing a cigarette butt that someone had dropped and left on the glacier. So disrespectful and disgusting! Do us all a favor and leave every place you visit cleaner than you found it.


After all that activity, this week has been pretty calm. I met with a local quilt group and they were all very welcoming and friendly. Not to mention talented! It was nice to work on my state flowers quilt with them. I also finished the Ahtna Athabascan Beading project. As you can see here, I restarted and collaborated with the kids (and their beads). Hooray for completion!


The trees have started to turn colors, so I guess that means Autumn starts in August here. I'm curious to see what the weather will be like when we leave in the middle of September. Until then, I'm savoring every moment.


Have a great week!

- Jen

Friday, July 22, 2016

Sourdough and Birch- Eating Alaska

It's no secret that our family likes to plan trips around local foods and restaurants. What I really love about planning this way, aside from tasting, is getting to meet the crafters of these culinary delights. They're the people who pour their hearts into the cultivation of vegetables and fruit so they can harvest them at peak ripeness. They're the people who experiment with lesser known ingredients to create entirely new taste experiences. They're the people who use generations-old family recipes and share them with strangers. They're foragers, animal experts, and promotors of health and sustainability. In short, they're artists with a passion to educate and innovate, and they connect us to our food in a personal way that the supermarket never could.

So far we've visited the Wasilla, Willow, Palmer, and Kenai farmers markets and have met some of these amazing people. Did you know that 98% of Alaska's food is imported? That is a scary number and one that Alaskans are trying to change. So, as a temporary citizen, I plan to do my part to support the local market where I can. Fortunately we happen to be here during the prime growing season, which makes it easy. Here is a sampling of some of the local gems we've discovered so far.

Once we entered Alaska and began our tour of the northern part of the state, we started noticing signs for "Sourdough" this, and "Sourdough" that. I know what sourdough is, and happen to be a big fan, but this was a little over the top. When I asked a local what it was all about, she told me that prospectors during the gold rush became known as "Sourdoughs" because they would carry sourdough starter with them for bread making. It became so steeped in the culture that people started naming businesses after it and now it's everywhere. Of course, I had to try some now that I knew the significance, so I ordered sourdough hotcakes at a restaurant in Kenai. They were flatter than the buttermilk pancakes I'm used to, and crisp on the edges, but still very tender. The pancakes had a tart flavor that played nicely with the butter and sweet syrup. Now that I have a temporary library card, you can bet I'll be trying my hand at making these little beauties from scratch with the kids!  If you want to learn more, you can visit: Sourdough History 

Another item we noticed at tourist hot spots was birch syrup. I've had maple syrup (the REAL stuff) plenty of times, but this was new. Unfortunately, none of the places selling it had samples. You had to buy the whole bottle if you wanted to try it. Birch syrup is a bit spendy, so we put it off. That is, we put it off until we ran across the place where it's made in Talkeetna! At their main location, which is a small store on the side of the road, we were treated to a video that showed us the process of harvesting and making the syrup. Then we were brought to a counter where a whole spectrum of vials were displayed. In each vial was a sample of syrup that began with the syrup made at the beginning of the harvest to the end of it. They also had a few different years to choose from, like a wine maker might. The syrup from the beginning of the harvest was sweet and light, whereas the syrup from the end of the harvest was more on the sour end of the scale. We were told that the syrup from the end of the harvest was best for things like barbeque sauces and marinades.

The reason for the variations in taste and color is because of the variations in the levels of fructose, which are higher at the beginning of the run. You can learn all about birch syrup here: Kahiltna Gold Birch Syrup We bought a bottle of the syrup from the 2015 first run. It's the consistency of maple syrup (the real stuff) and resembles it in flavor, but has bitter notes and an earthiness you don't get in maple syrup. It makes a delicious ice cream and caramel. I highly recommend checking it out! Apparently it's also easier for diabetics to process.


These are birch collection buckets. You'll have to visit their site to see how it's done.

This is the equipment the syrup is processed in.

The tour guide put the syrup from the first run and the syrup from the last run next to each other so we could see the difference in color. These are all from the same year. The lighter syrup is the first run.

Last week I told you about the fireweed jelly from Jingle Jellies at the farmers market (she sells in both Wasilla and Willow). So far we've tried the fireweed, fir tip (which tastes like lemonade), and nasturtium (It's fruity and mild. Almost peach-like). I'm looking forward to trying all her out-of-the-ordinary flavors while we're here. 

We've also been checking out local small businesses, like Monica's Confection Connection in Wasilla. This store only opened a month ago. In it, you'll find delicious homemade fudges, marshmallows, brittles, lollipops, and gummy candies. My favorite was the Chocolate Caramel Nut fudge, which was like a Snickers Bar.

I know. I have a terrible sweet tooth....don't judge.  


At stores across Alaska, I've been seeing navy blue boxes with a white sailor on them called "Sailor Boy Pilot Bread Crackers". This isn't a brand I've seen in the "Lower 48", so I asked a local about them. I was surprised to learn that it's hardtack. You know, like the stuff pioneers used back during the wagon train days! Of course, I HAD to try it. So, I bought a box. They're about the size of a cookie and look like a Ritz Cracker without the salt. In my mind I had built up the idea that hardtack would be break-your-teeth hard, like in the descriptions from books. Not so! It's more like a dense, crisp cracker. Almost like a saltine without the salt, and lends itself to being topped with cheese or any other spread. The local I spoke to told me about Pilot Bread being a staple of her childhood, in a family with little means. "It's basically a filler." she told me. I'm glad I decided to try it. The kids also liked it, which means it will be easy to bring with us as we explore.



In Fairbanks we visited the Tanana Valley Farmers Market, which was pretty big compared to the markets around here in the Matanuska Valley (we have yet to visit the one in south Anchorage). We loved the art but a few things really caught our eye. One being teeny-tiny wild strawberries. They were fragrant and sweet. Apparently, people go out to forage and sell their findings at the market. I love this! Mostly because as a visitor, I don't have the knowledge, resources, or time the locals have to go out to find them myself. We also saw a booth for a mushroom forager. Chaga seems to be huge at the markets here in Alaska.

When we saw honeyberries (which we'd never seen before) being sold at a booth, we made sure to try them. They're like long, tart blueberries and have a sweet finish to them. Our daughter especially liked them. The vendor who sold them to us told us they make a wonderful sauce for meats when cooked down. You can learn more here: Honeyberries in Fairbanks


When I get a chance, I'll post a picture of one of the ice cream shacks we pass every day. In Washington, we have sheds that have been converted into drive-thru coffee shops everywhere (along with all the varieties of indie coffee shops and chains. What can I say? We love our coffee!). They have them up here also, but many of them are dedicated to ice cream instead. I've been told that Alaskans eat more ice cream, per capita, than anywhere else in the United States. I can neither confirm nor deny that claim, but it seems to be true from the amount of ice cream shops we've seen up here.

I know I've left a conspicuous hole where the Alaskan fishing industry is concerned. My husband and I are big fans of all seafood, to be sure. Where we are, though, we actually come across more advertisements for game meats than seafood, so that's where our focus has been. We'll leave that part of the Alaskan diet for another post when we visit a town where fish plays the starring role. Until then, I'll tell you that we've tried reindeer and buffalo sausages and hot dogs. 

No, we haven't eaten seal oil, moose, or bear. Mostly because we're not natives and those items haven't been offered to us. It's only legal to sell meats and products from animals that have been farm raised. This is a way of protecting the wildlife from poachers and overharvesting. Even though we are adventurous eaters, we fully support this law. Sustainability is the only responsible way to go.

One thing I will tell you about fishing in Alaska is that we drove down the peninsula to Soldotna and Kenai last weekend, where fishing season is in full swing. There were swarms of people lined up and down the rivers using large nets to catch fish (look up dipnetting). I'm sure plenty were tourists, but there were also a fair few locals trying to catch fish for their winter freezers. Life up here is pretty cold once those months arrive, so people try to stock their freezers as best as they can to prepare.

The views everywhere are gorgeous and people are so hospitable and creative. We're really enjoying our time here! Have a great week!

- Jen

Friday, April 1, 2016

Walkin' on Sunshine

There's only one word I can use to sum up the Pacific Northwest. Glorious!  There's a resolute majesty in the snow-capped mountain ranges. Peaks silently remind us that we live in the Ring of Fire. Glaciers sparkle with ancient blue ice. Magic permeates rainforests that are filled with various plants in shades of green, and animals who move silently, but imposingly. Evergreen trees fairly drip with moss and lichen. Tribes of people, who have been here for more generations that I can count, spin wondrous tales that stir the imagination. An abnormally high concentration of artists create beautiful works to delight the eye, mind, and palate. Boats glide through the water alongside breeching whales and curious sea life to deliver the catch of the day. A new generation of farmers explore how to be responsible, sustainable, and chemical-free. Yes, there's no doubt that I love this part of the world. I'm in awe every time I step outside!

I was going to get around to writing about Washington eventually. After all, it's where we've made our home. If we are going to take you all on a trip around North America with us, it needs to begin where we've established our roots. Now seems like as good a time as any. Especially since we've been enjoying warm, sunny days and the landscape is awash with blossoming trees, fragrant flowers, and musical bird song. Where we live, you can get to the ocean, mountain pass, farmland, city, and desert all in under two hours. One, if you don't count the desert. Because of this, we have a wide variety of things to see and do. I could make a list of all the popular tourist attractions, but I think I'll save that for the travel guides. Everyone knows about things like the Space Needle and Pike Place Market. Instead I'll just highlight a few places that are buzzing around this time of year.

Today is the official start of the Skagit Valley Tulip Festival. The blossoms came earlier than expected this year, but if you visit now you'll see beautiful fields filled with every color imaginable. In fact, Roozengaarde is the largest daffodil, tulip, and iris business in the world! To learn more, visit: http://tulipfestival.org/  and http://www.visitskagitvalley.com/upcoming-events/spring/annual-skagit-valley-tulip-festival/ While you're up there, and if you're like me and love quilts, be sure to visit the La Conner Quilt and Textile Museum. http://www.laconnerquilts.org/ It's just a hop, skip, and a jump away.

Here are a few pictures from our pilgrimage last year.





One of my favorite reasons to visit Skagit (other than the Tulips)  is driving to Edison, WA. It's a teeny-tiny artist colony in the middle of Bow farmland. Within this itsy-bitsy town is a bakery called The Bread Farm. http://www.breadfarm.com/  A dear friend introduced me to it and I'm afraid I'm severely addicted to their graham crackers. They're like buttery, crisp shortbread... my mouth is watering just thinking about them. We especially like them frozen. The bakers are nothing short of artisans and they hold to a local, sustainable, organic point of view. The quality is unmatched and I love their charitable hearts.




We happen to live by Fall City, home of Pete Nelson from the show Treehouse Masters. http://www.nelsontreehouseandsupply.com/ I see his wife from time to time. Did you know that on top of building all those fabulous tree houses for other people, his family runs a bed and breakfast and you can STAY in one?! Yep. It's true. It's called Treehouse Point. If you aren't able to stay there, then make sure to book a tour ahead of time. They like to keep things peaceful for the visitors, so space is very limited. http://www.treehousepoint.com/

April and May is geoduck season on the Hood Canal and we love going up to dig for clams and mussels. Just remember that if you would like to do something like this, you will need a permit first. Oh, and wear close-toed shoes. The oysters are like razor blades! Here are a few pictures from one of our trips.

Here's your first picture of our kids. They love trying to find the tiny holes in the sand where you can find clams. You can only find geoduck clams when the tide is ultra-super-low.



This was the result of that trip. Yum, yum!!


Produce stands have started popping up, which means cherry season is almost here. The farmers markets will begin in May, which means we'll get to explore the new stands soon. Last year there were things like tea soda, crocheted dolls from someone's grandmother, the Molly Moon's Ice cream truck, and more. We can't wait!

As far as trip preparation goes, we had our fireplace serviced and several rooms were painted this week. There have been three walk-through's and we may have a potential renter!

84 days to go.....

- Jen 
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